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by @mslibrarycommission
Unpacking the Hamilton Costumes: Historical Accuracy? How to Take Liberties With Period CostumeAlso. Irrelevant, but when are we going gender blind and getting a woman playing Hamilton? *I’m referring at this point to the stays in Hamilton providing a vertically flattened silhouette, eliminating bust curve in the bodice that would not have been apparent in the 18th century. This was poorly worded (‘flat front’) as stays technically were not entirely flat down the front at all; particularly as the century progressed, stays became more and more rigid down the front, the center front peaks more prominent to the point where busks were used to push the center front seam out away from the body and into a point. See for example the extant stays on pages 106 and 110 in ‘Patterns of Fashion 5’ by Janet Arnold, et al. [1] Paul Tazewell was trained in Shakespeare and other historically-based productions: (https://observer.com/2016/06/hamiltons-costume-designer-talks-about-modernizing-18th-century-style/) [2] Examples of women in stays as outerwear: -https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/RXwgcAdCV6a-eUXyg6z5yp0xvcpePye2co6t-ePm54oufBvn2EGHTccctCUXbwneLsCub18iFbR5oGV7CqvFCOFCc83G3oo -http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O699348/old-chairs-to-mend-print-vendramini-giovanni-john/ -https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Cries-of-London-10.jpg?w=600&ssl=1 (Francis Wheatley’s ‘Cries of London’ series) -https://i0.wp.com/spitalfieldslife.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Cries-of-London-9-Version-2.jpg?w=600&ssl=1 (Francis Wheatley’s ‘Cries of London’ series) [3] Portrait of King George III: https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/george-iii-17381820-28467/search/people:george-iii-of-the-united-kingdom/page/1/view_as/grid Screenshot of the elbow dart was taken from this video interview: ABC Costume interview: https://abc7news.com/hamilton-abc7-video-backstage-at-watch/5552487/ IMAGE CREDITS: Portrait of a Lady, 1764. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/17447 Dress, Ca. 1760. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79220 Robe à l’Anglaise, 1785-87. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/81105?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&when=A.D.+1600-1800&ft=fashion+plate&offset=0&rpp=80&pos=76 Dress, 1795-97. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82284?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&when=A.D.+1600-1800&ft=fashion+plate&offset=160&rpp=80&pos=202 Coat, 1787-92. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/82457?searchField=All&sortBy=Relevance&when=A.D.+1600-1800&ft=coat&offset=0&rpp=20&pos=17 Tailcoat, ca. 1815. The Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/657342 Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Prints & merch of design sketches: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadettebanner@lighthouseagents.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Music: ‘Charmed Encounter’ by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com ‘Yellow Light’ by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com ‘Incidental Encounter’ by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com ‘Minor Indiscretions’ by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com ‘Odd Behaviour’ by Arthur Benson, epidemicsound.com
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